Saturday, March 21, 2009

Adios Ixtapa

Another scorcher of an afternoon, spent lazily in the pool. It was late afternoon by the time I showered before an early dinner.

Our eyes were on the bay, where the sunset cruise sailboat was moving slowly across the water. Suddenly, we saw a huge splash and the characteristic tail of an orca frolicking near the sailboat. We watched, transfixed, for about five minutes. Another orca, less dramatic, was splashing not too far from the first.

I tried to take some video, but don't think I was successful. Bob used his binoculars almost sthe entire time, so he got a good view of at least one of the whales. It was a very moving and exciting end to our week in Ixtapa.

Spanish 101: C+

I'm happy with my progress in Spanish over the last week. Since most of my learning was done solo, I was a little apprehensive. Fortunately I'm not shy!

The first day, I could barely participate in a basic exchange of pleasantries. Today, we had a beer in the little Ixtapa bar where we had stopped on Monday. I talked with the bartender about a variety of subjects, including the relative uselessness of most language classes. Of course, he slowed down his speech for me and patiently waited as I struggled for words, but it was a thrill to communicate!

I'm wondering what I can do to improve when I return home? There are certainly plenty of native Spanish speakers everywhere, so I should be able to find opportunity.

Last Day in Ixtapa

The balcony is very pleasant in the morning before the heat of the day makes it intolerable until early evening. Some of the fishing boats haven't come in yet after a night on the water, and a couple of pleasure boaters are out for an early ride. Bob saw a large school of fish jumping in the distance, a tasty meal for the ever present brown pelicans.

Yesterday, we spent most of the afternoon in the pool. That, of course, is my favorite way to enjoy any day. The four-man ensemble, rather reminiscent of the old Desi Arnaz Orchestra of the fifties, played old tunes in the Lobby Bar. We had a light supper in the Bellavista Restaurant, a fish sandwich with the usual perfect presentation.

Neither of us is much of a shopper, but we really do want to buy a few things so we'll head to Ixtapa city center this morning. It's so beautiful right here that it's hard to leave these lovely 34 acres.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Caminata Ecologica

I joined the 8 AM ecological walk for birders and others. I'm not sure whether I'm a birder or an "other", but I seemed like one of "them" so I suspect that I have moved into that sub-species.

The guide was very knowledgeable and the 75-minute walk was fun. I learned that the very noisy bird we hear every morning is the chachalaca, We also saw an apparently rare pygmy owl, parrots and a sleeping porcupine with its long tail wrapped around the limb of a tree.

By the time I returned to base camp the day was already getting hot. I climbed the vertical staircase from the 10th to the 17th floor and I was quite warm by the time I got to the top. My breakfast of fruit, nuts, yogurt, papaya juice and lots of coffee was a very welcome treat.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Five Star Swimming Pools

I've been rating swimming pools for many years and I think these are the best ever.

Our usual pool is for adults only, a very large square with several waterfalls. There are lounge chairs around the perimeter, mostly in the sun, but by the time we get to the pool later in the afternoon there's a little shade from the beach umbrellas and the trees that surround the pool area. The water is usually a little cooler that the torrid air, but today it felt like bathwater so we tried the other large, rectangular pool a few feet away.

We had avoided the "kids'" pool until today, but it was, in fact, almost empty and the water was much cooler and more refreshing. Water spills out of this pool down five or six wide steps, down to a small square pool that we had assumed was a wading pool. Not so. Like the other pools, it is five feet deep -- dangerous for young children, of course, but just great for people like me who swim a couple of strokes across the length of most hotel pools before hitting the wall.

The only other pool away from home I remember enjoying this much was at a KOA in South Dakota many years ago. The late August evenings were very cold, and the water in the KOA cool was steaming hot. It felt like a spa under the stars before bed in the old Coachmen motorhome. The Las Brisas pools are spa-like for the opposite reason, cooling us off after slogging through the heat all afternoon. Doesn't get much better than this.

Isla Ixtapa

We decided to check out the Isla Ixtapa before hauling out snorkeling gear. That was a very good idea, since the experience was just that -- an experience. Not one particularly to my liking, though. I imagined the "isla" as a type of nature preserve, accessible by a ferry similar the one to Mackinac Island.

Not so. Our cab to Playa Linda was greeted by a many vendors selling everything from lunch to beach umbrellas. We stumbled (so to speak) into an fenced off area overlooking a lagoon full of crocodiles. And there were plenty of them! Iguanas and geckos climbed the trees inside the compound, also full of noisy tropical birds. Later in the afternoon, the crocodiles had all congregated for an afternoon nap near a footbridge. They all seemed to have long, sharp teeth.

The "ferry" to the island was, in fact, a small boat similar to the ones we saw yesterday in Zihuatanejo. It was no easy feat to get into the boat, as I'm always afraid that my knee will give away, but fortunately all was well both outbound and inbound.

When we got to the island, we were accosted by vendors from the moment we got off the boat. One of them guided us to a covered platform where we coud watch the snorkelers and little boys playing on the rocks. We had a couple of warm beers, paying a premium for the privilege of drinking on the island. Several jewelry vendors displayed their wares. I was reminded of a gypsy encampment I saw outside Rome in the late seventies, a milieu in which I felt similarly conspicuous and uneasy. It was no place for me on this day -- or any day, for that matter.

Bob, on the other hand, enjoyed the moment for what it was, a different way to spend the day, a memory to talk about later. The warmth of midday turned to scorching heat in mid-afternoon and we headed back up the hill via cab. The Corona at my side as I type tastes very cold and refreshing.

Magic under the Stars

After skipping dinner every evening, we made an (unneeded) reservation at the hotel restaurant overlooking the beach, La Brisa. It is an elegant spot consisting of about 10 tables on the paver stones, up against the low wall 20 feet or so above the beach.

We were the only early (6:30 p.m.) diners and the service was expert and solicitous. Both meals (red snapper for Bob, shrimp and scallops for me) were so beautifully presented that I should have taken a picture. The cabernet sauvignon was lovely and there was no critical look on the waiter's face when I selected red over white wine.

The sun began its descent soon after we arrived and, while the view was not so spectacular from that location, it was beautiful nonetheless. The stars soon filled the sky and we both independently remembered a similar magical evening in Quebec City, on a frigid winter evening at the Chateau Bonne Entente in early 1982. It was a perfect end to a wonderful day.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Internet Woes

I've had an on and off (mostly off) connection for about 24 hours -- a source of great anxiety for a junkie like me!

Keeping my fingers crossed!

Zihuatanejo Shopping Junket

We took a cab into Zihuatanejo for a little shopping expedition.

We stopped at the municipal pier and watched the boats going back and forth across the bay. I think they were going to the Playa Las Gatas, nearly every boat very overloaded with no lifejackets in sight. After trying to have lunch at two Frommer’s recommended restaurants (both closed for lunch), we let ourselves be enticed into an open air restaurant with a view of the fishing boats in the harbor. Bob had mahi mahi fillet; I ordered the shrimp brochette (which arrived without the skewer). Both were served with a savory rice and salad and were quite delicious.

After lunch we walked slowly back through the market area and stopped for a cold Victoria beer. Neither of us is much of a shopper and we hadn’t yet bought anything, but the beer gave us a little fortitude. Bob got a shirt and hat, and I found a pretty silver cross and chain, but not without some help from Bob. The chain was more that I wanted to pay so I walked away, but the merchant kept lowering the price. That unnerved me until Bob stepped in and settled on 120 pesos. I then figured that I had paid too much for the cross (150 pesos), but for 250 (less than $20 US) I should just forget about it and be happy with the purchase.

Earlier, we had met some Vancouverites who had taken the city bus from Ixtapa for the equivalent of about a dollar, compared with the six dollars (with tip) that we had paid for cab fare. However, we decided the convenience was well worth the price and we hailed a cab for the trip home.

Snorkel Practice

We tried snorkeling for the first time in Cozumel last year. The gear came from a large pile of masks, snorkels and fins. They looked very “used” and I questioned the wisdom of using a snorkel that had been in countless mouths over many months or perhaps years. We entered the water by walking down a treacherous incline of slippery rock, a terrifying experience in the unfamiliar fins. Still, we enjoyed the experience and caught on quite well.

I bought snorkel gear for both of us before leaving on this trip. With a $60 coupon on amazon.com, the purchase cost only $100. Bob was very doubtful, but the equipment packed very easily, especially because we left the travel gear bags at home. On Tuesday, I tried out the snorkel and fins in the pool. The new, improved snorkel was perfect and I even learned to dive, listening to the snorkel fill with water before swimming to the surface. I blew the water out and was able to breathe again with ease.

Deluxe Combo Tour

The minivan tour left soon after 10:30 AM. Three of us were scrunched in the second seat of a minivan, fine for me in the middle and not so bad for the very slim woman beside me, but not so good for Bob's long legs. He would have preferred the front seat beside the driver, but that spot had already been grabbed by a man from Waterloo, Iowa, one of our 6 companions on the journey.

We got a quick look at the marina we were walking to yesterday, not much to look at. We were soon on our way through Zihuatanejo, up the hill to a lookout where we got a breathtaking look at the bay. It was getting hot by this time, so I got out at the next stop with some trepidation. The promised "plantation" was really a touristy coconut farm, with a coconut man in residence chopping up coconuts with a machete. Juan the guide claimed that the coconut guy processed 8,000 coconuts a day in this labor intensive way, a machete mounted on a pedestal between his legs for the first stab job. He finished off each coconut with a hand machete, swung dangerously close to his body. I was surprised that he seemed to be in possession of all his body parts.

We bought a couple of pastries, freshly baked in the outdoor oven. One a coconut stuffed empanada, the other a kind of cinnamon roll. They are in the refrigerator right now, and we will have them for supper. As we lingered, I suspected that this would be a very long day indeed. We piled back into the van and headed up the road to the next stop, an "outdoor tile factory".

We turned off the main drag, the road between the California border and Guatemala, and headed down a bumpy dirt road past a cemetery right on the side of the road, a site that led Juan into a story about "el dia de los muertos", where the graves are visited extensively and decorated with many artifacts that seem to combine Christian faith along with many pagan superstitions.

Onward past children,already adept at begging, playing with an iguana. Bob gave the kids a few coins; many pictures were taken, except by me, not because I felt bad (although I did feel very sad), but because I just couldn’t get my camera in the right spot to take a picture. We finally arrived at the next destination, something resembling what I imagine a "dirt farm" to be. I was expecting Cousin Eddie to show up with a sixpack, something seeming mighty attractive at this point.

A man was making clay tiles that he picked up one by one after forming them with his hands and primitive tools, taking them 20 feet or so to dry in the sun. We were shown the huge hole where the farmers dig for clay until depletion requires a move to another location. I was handed a piece of leaf that smelled vaguely familiar: it had been cut from the oregano bush. Finally, on the way out of the place, the artisans had laid out some clay decorations for purchase -- suns, moons, little animals. The words "abject poverty" came to mind. By the time we all got back in the bus, we were a little subdued.

Next stop Petetlan. We visited the church, a much revered shrine, the scene of many miracles. I would have found Juan’s theology troubling but I was too tired and hot to care, and I couldn’t even energize myself enough to find a couple of postcards at what seemed to be an outdoor gift shop.

We had one final port of call, lunch! By this time, it was well after 2:30 PM and we were all ravenous. The Dos Equis beer and burned chicken hit the spot, and we finally headed back home. Juan’s discourses covered every topic from local politics to the customs and language of Indians in the hills, with many stories of rattlesnake bites, harrowing childbirth, change in marriage customs over time, and any other topic that came into his head.

At last, we were almost home. Oh oh. The van stopped. Just like that. Flooded the engine, Bob thought. Dehydrated and tired, we grabbed a cab and headed to Las Brisas. The day ended well after all.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Happy St. Patrick's Day

More often than not, Bob and I seem to be out of the country for the holiday. We'll be wearing the green and enjoying the day. Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Sun, Stars, Moon and Tides

On Monday evening we had drinks on the deck, putting a dent in the Johnny Walker Red purchased at the bar in Ixtapa. Rather than go out to dinner, we had a couple of granola bars and a small bag of chips from the minibar.

The sunset was glorious once again and several boats in the bay seemed to pause directly in front of the sun, looking as though they were going to drop into the sea in the last, magic moments of daylight. Instead, they continued north, toward Ixtapa or Zihuatanejo. The first "star" in the sky was Venus, I think,bright and beautiful shining solo until darkness fell, revealing the constellations. Bob saw a shooting star -- his first ever.

Somewhere a campfire burned. The tide seemed very high, with waves crashing on the rocks on either side of the bay. The ocean sounds filled the night and now, as dawn approaches, light from the half-moon is reflected in the waves as they crest. The concrete deck is still warm from yesterday but the morning air is a little chilly.

I hear a few early rising birds welcoming another golden day.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Los Pobres con Nosotros

As is so often the case, I find myself reflecting on the uneven distribution of wealth and opportunity. People in this hotel work very long hours in the heat, literally running with buckets of beer, on hard concrete and on the scorching beach. I suspect that we spend more on a meal than most earn in a day.

In the small Ixtapa restaurant where we had lunch today, a man with trinkets and cheap jewelry walked through the place every time a new cutomer entered. He seemed worn, discouraged and very poor.

My natural inclination to overtip assuages my guilt a little, but not quite enough. The disparities are too wide; basic needs are so great.

Beyond Las Brisas

We could have stayed "home" today and enjoyed something of a "far niente" lifestyle, but we decided to head out after a rather leisurely breakfast. The coffee was superb, as were egg dishes (scrambled with ham for Bob, benedict for me). We might have made a tiny mistake in tasting the green garnish, which turned out to be a slice of not so delicious cactus. Apple and orange juices were as good as fresh beverages made with a juicer.

We headed down the hill in a taxi to the center city, much less tourist trappy in appearance than I had expected. I was horrified to see a young child rolling cigars but this was simply a bad taste photo op. The cigar maker soon resumed his post, and it was hard to get Bob to leave. In fact, we returned later so that a cigar could be purchased for later enjoyment -- Bob's, not mine.



It was hot walking and our plan to go to "the marina" was abandoned when we realized that the destination might be a little ambitious for such a hot day. Instead we stopped at the Hotel Krystal bar for a Corona and people watching. The Krystal has a great beach, somewhat more "swimmable" than ours at Las Brisas, but we seem to have become accustomed to the first class stream and we really do prefer our hotel. It was fun to watch the parasailers on the beach; the ride is short but it looks like a lot of fun!

We took a cab home after lunch and are thinking of a little swimming soon, as late afternoon brings a little relative coolness to the day.

The Hola Language Lab

I tend to be over confident in my language ability. Paradoxically, over confidence can be a good thing, since I often venture into situations and conversations that far exceed my skills, and I pick up words and phrases simply because of the constant struggle to speak and understand. Confidence got me nowhere in Turkey last year, though, and the best I could do in 10 days was "rice pudding". Fortunately, the rice pudding was very good in Istanbul.

On Sunday, we headed out to the lobby bar to watch the sunset, as spectacular as promised. The patrons, many of whom were well oiled, applauded just as the guide books said they would. We were too tired to venture into one of the $$$$ restaurants for dinner, so we stopped at the little convenience store near the lobby and bought a sandwich. The two women -- girls, really -- who served us were very willing to talk to me in Spanish, but even the simple conversation was a little above my skills. Nevertheless, they and I persisted.

I still am unsure of exactly when "buenos dias" becomes "buenas tardes", but I did learn that "hola" is more than a greeting among good friends. Actually, I had thought it was the very familiar "hello" used only by unruly teenagers. Not so. We are both pretty good with "hola" now!

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Las Brisas



Our room wasn't ready when we arrived so we wandered around the property, feeling a little lost and somewhat tired from the journey. Not too tired to lounge around the pool though, where I felt very smug that I had worn shorts for the trip. We had a couple of Coronas around the pool, and a light lunch at the restaurant on the pool level. I had delicious chicken fajitas while Bob stuck with a tried and true ... hamburger.

We finally got into our room shortly after 1 PM (2 PM CDT). Our balcony overlooks the beach from the 17th floor and we can hear the surf even when the balcony window and shutters are closed. I'm thinking a walk on the beach is in order yet this afternoon.

The hotel staff are very pleasant and helpful. I love the feel of the cold tile on my feet as I sit by the window. The room temperature is perfect. Feels like a day in paradise.

Trying out First Class


I got off to a rather rocky start this morning at 2:30 a.m., as did Fritz, who spent the night (all 4 hours of it) sleeping on my suitcase.

I wasn't really feeling my best because of my Avonex injection yesterday evening, a day early so that I wouldn't have to fly with medication in my carry-on. Fortunately, check-in was very easy at the well-organized Humphrey terminal. On a whim (mine) we decided to pay the premium $ for an upgrade to first class, such a pleasant experience that I will feel cheated the next time I fly in coach with my former peers.

Beverage service started the minute we sat down. Many of our fellow elite passengers started right in on the bloody marys and screwdrivers. The guy behind me ordered a Baileys and orange juice,a combination questioned by the flight attendant who was relieved to be told that the passenger wanted them separately, not mixed.

The flight -- nearly 5 hours -- passed very quickly with the diversion of a full breakfast, several orange juice refills and, at the end of the trip a Bacardi & diet coke for me, scotch and soda for Bob.

The temperature was almost 80 when we got off the plane, the only arrival we could see this morning. We moved quickly through customs and immigration and boarded the bus to our hotel. It was a jolt to move so quickly from the royal treatment to the old bus, where beverages were sold from a cooler at the front of the bus. $2 to serve yourself, which we did not.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Spanish for Idiots

When we booked this trip in January, I dusted off the Spanish books purchased after a frustrating and silent week in Spain a few years ago. After attending a not very helpful commuty education class in which the instructor spoke more English than Spanish, I began to eavesdrop on conversations at the West St. Paul McDonald's. Catching only a word here and there, I entrusted myself to Univision, where I fared better, especially with children's programs and commercials.

I can read quite well now, and I'm borderline fluent if I can restrict the conversation to the blue sky, pet dogs and cats and formal conversations involving great courtesy and lots of le gustas and phrases like la puerta está abierta, learned from The Busboy, a Seinfeld episode. Oh, and the conversation is best if I can take on all the speaking parts myself.

My knowledge of numbers is pretty good, but it may not be so great when I have to count unfamiliar currency. More than once in Turkey last year, I put coins on a counter, expecting the merchant to count out the correct change for me.

Still, I'm excited about the trip and looking forward to practicing my Spanish, even if everyone does speak English at a hotel like Las Brisas in touristy Ixtapa!